14 September 2005

Business Casual

Textiles in GhanaGlobalization has devastated your local industries. You can’t raise tariffs or subsidies for fear of international sanctions, but you can try to create a local demand for your local products.

From the Christian Science Monitor, December 27, 2004:

In Ghana, a different kind of ‘Casual Friday’

“Duck into any government ministry or executive boardroom here on Fridays these days and you'll notice a little extra splash of color. Loose shirts with geometrical patterns in red and maroon have replaced stiff pin-striped suits. Bright flowing wax-print dresses have nudged out conservative skirts and blouses.

The Ghanaian government is urging civil servants and office workers to abandon their Westernized business attire in favor of local fabrics. But unlike in the US and elsewhere, where khakis and an open collar is the boss's way of bringing a little ease to the end of the week, Ghana’s ‘National Friday Wear,’ launched last month, has bigger things on its mind. Its goal is two-fold: to celebrate African culture, and, more important, to create jobs by reviving a textile industry that has all but collapsed. Ghana imports some $43 million worth of used clothes annually, more than any other African nation, says the International Trade Center, based in Geneva. By contrast, its clothing exports — mostly socks — totaled just $4 million last year. The country that once employed some 25,000 textile workers now has just 3,000.”

The article strikes me as a little condescending, but the strategy described is interesting nonetheless. It seems a quite similar to various “Buy American” campaigns against Japanese automobiles. These also invoked a kind of “national style.” What could be more American than owning and driving an American built car of your own?

Both invoke a national style to create local demand, both reinforcing and manufacturing a style and a narrative of what it means to be a citizen and how one can participate.

Promoting “traditional” wear as appropriate for business positions the citizens as a community in opposition to the international style of capitalism — at the same time embracing international business as woven into the fabric of local tradition.

Launched with the program is a Venture Capital Fund to restructure the garment sector by granting small businesses access to credit.

While one goal of the National Friday Wear campaign is to create so much demand that “the cost of the fabrics so low that it could be afforded by all... given the low purchasing power of Ghanaians,” ultimately, the goal is “to help the country position itself to launch into both the American and the European markets.”

That is, national style as a springboard for international export.